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NY Fashion Week: Y & KEI by PJ Gach EDGE Style Contributor Thursday Feb 9, 2006
| Y & Kei’s fall show was a sumptuous feast for the eyes. Lots of ruffles
paired with narrow pants. The palette ran from gleaming ivory to pale lavender, to midnight blue. Once again, we’re
seeing the Victorian influence with jabots, full sleeves and high necklines. These Victorians are sexy. Blouses are sheer
chiffon reworked with beads or heavily detailed lace, worn without anything underneath.
The waistline moves depending
upon the garment. Most dresses are empire. This (normally) is a forgiving silhouette; almost any body type can wear it and
not look frumpy. However, some of their empire bodices’ were teeny; perfect only for small breasted women. The pant
waistband seems to be moving northward. Are we leaving low-rise pants behind? When it comes to grown up formal wear it can
look a tad more polished to pair a regular waist velvet pant with a sheer black chiffon top and metallic blazer. Then again,
Y & Kei also sent out low waist greige wool pants with an eyelet chiffon blouse that looked just as chic as their higher
waist pants outfits.
I adored their black velvet knickers paired with a black cashmere cardi that had a rose shaped
ruffle and a navy and champagne eyelet camisole. These were the only knickers I’ve seen, and I’m glad they did
it. Theirs are sexy, not silly.
The duo’s coats are just as eye-catching as what is underneath. Do you have to
pick either the midnight blue wool satin double breasted trench, or the midnight blue glitter wrap coat? Wait! There’s
the winter white double breasted coat with flower buttons. Or you could pick the navy and lavender chenille jacquard belted
jacket. It would fab with their black wool stretch pant. These are difficult decisions.
I adored their use of metallic
fabrics; gold, silver and bronze in their evening wear. It’s been too long since gold has languished in the back of
the closet. Y & Kei’s metallic dresses are continental in flair, not trailer park. Their silver lame jersey goddess
gown- the one they closed the show with- is a poetic dream. The straight sleeves end midway to your palm, making the wearer
look like she stepped out of a pre-Raphaelite painting. There are modern cocktail dresses too, don’t worry. The midnight
blue slip dress with black embroidery would make any event look stylish. Or pick the gold lace empire cocktail dress with
gold caviar bead embroidery. Either one would make you the center of attention, in a very good way.
The details really
brought piece together. Belt buckles were deco in design, and encrusted with jewels. There was ribbon trim, and bows on blouses,
shoulders and necks. Y & Kei are also showing a wider belt but not wrestler big as some other designers.
Overall
their line is graceful, romantic and chic. I want to be a Y & Kei girl!
Fuckabilty factor: slow sophisticated seduction.
Goodie
bag: limited edition lip gloss and lipstick from MAC, created in collaboration with Y & Kei. The lippys will hit stores
in May. A plant pure-fume candle from Aveda, and a coupon for a free manicure from Priti, an organic non-toxic spa located
at 35 East 1st Avenue in Manhattan.
PJ Gach is a Contributing Writer for the Style
Section of the EDGE group of publications. She’s a Manhattanite, a proud dog owner, gal about town and freelance writer.
Some of the publications her pieces have appeared in are The New York Post, Rolling Stone (web & mag), Ingenue Magazine
and Drill magazine. In her spare time, she rescues orphaned shoes.
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